Just changed my oil at ~1000mi. Came out with a viscosity of almost like water. Did not shimmer like yours did and I didn’t see any noticeable flecks so far.
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Great advice, just picked up my new Trail Hunter and stocked up on oil filters and got some mobile one. I'll be following your schedule which I've been doing for years. This is my 7th Toyota, never had an engine problem with any of them.Dropped the oil at the 1000 mile mark to flush out the expected metal particles and will be repeating it at 2500 and 5000.
This is completely normal for all new and rebuilt engines so nothing is abnormal here for people that arent familiar its a visual representation to remind you how dirty they really are.
Do not run 10k miles without changing the oil.
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Yea the 0w20 is just pure water, im not a fan of it at all and i do question its ability to maintain its stability under towing but the manual doesnt recommend anything thicker for severe duty as chevy normally does for trucks and sports cars. Its so thin that most of the flecks settled to the bottom instead of being suspended like a 5w30 or 40 would have been.Just changed my oil at ~1000mi. Came out with a viscosity of almost like water. Did not shimmer like yours did and I didn’t see any noticeable flecks so far.
Early oil changes on new engines are only needed if you care about engine longevity. Here is a YouTube that agrees new engines will have many metal filings etc. and you should change oil early on new engines to better protect your investment.Is this showing Toyota still has the "engine metal debris from assembly" issue, but these metal flecks would be blocked by the filter? Or is this level of debris that's visible to the naked eye no worse or better than any brand new engine (i.e. they don't flush the engine and all the oil passages before they assemble them so some particles will end up in the pan upon the first flow of oil), regardless of the manufacturer (and still blocked by the filter)?
Also wanted to add that many dealers these days use a vacuum extractor to pull oil out from the top when doing oil changes. I wonder how well that gets these particles out compared to a bottom, gravity-drain of the pan? I guess it depends if the particles are mostly suspended in the oil in the pan, or if they sink to the bottom.
No it should not unless you put some wildly incompatible oil like a 20w50 Classic car oil and it causes an oil related failure. The factory service plan is 10k so I will be completing my own oil changes at 1k, 2.5k, 5k and then at 10k take the free one, and continue at 15k on my own and 20k go and take a free one, because the dealer wont do them off schedule and oil antiwear/ cleaning additive packs typically wont be good for 10k of stop and go usage.This seems like a good idea. I come from the motorcycle world and this is common practice - oil change after the initial break-in period. And, I know this is apples to oranges.
So, Maybe asked and answered but will doing your own oil change void the new vehicle warranty? My new 4Runner came with a service plan/warranty (3 oil changes and x miles - don't recall how many right now)
Thanks
Exactly, that guy knows his stuff.just follow ADM advice on CCNut YT pages on oil changes.
Just did my wife's ORP today at 2000 miles even cut the filter open not a single speck of metal.Performed the first 1,000 mile oil and filter change today on the Trailhunter. Easiest oil change I have ever done on any vehicle.
Didn't see any metal bits and shavings or other deposits in the oil
Exactly as cuttingedgesport said, the 2nd picture shows the old oil filled with metal particles and sealant bits when on a clean engine it would be a pure glossy brown without the metallic effect.
I changed my wife's at 2k this weekend, cut the filter open, Absolutely no metal or anything in the oil. It looked new coming out. I work with performance engines everyday have built and tore down hundreds of engines over the years. That looks pretty excessive. Looks like a lot bearing material.Dropped the oil at the 1000 mile mark to flush out the expected metal particles and will be repeating it at 2500 and 5000.
This is completely normal for all new and rebuilt engines so nothing is abnormal here for people that arent familiar its a visual representation to remind you how dirty they really are.
Do not run 10k miles without changing the oil.
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Its not bearing material, those do not come in contact with the crank otherwise wise id have a spun bearing by now. Its cylinder wall and ring shavings. I currently build performance engines and this is normal for any engine, I don't know what your filter looked like or how good your eyes are but the dust that comes out would be pretty hard to see with a naked eye on a soaked filter element, youre not going to find a 10 gram chunk of aluminum in it. If you dont believe you need to do then you don't have to do it. Your truck will be perfectly fine.I changed my wife's at 2k this weekend, cut the filter open, Absolutely no metal or anything in the oil. It looked new coming out. I work with performance engines everyday have built and tore down hundreds of engines over the years. That looks pretty excessive. Looks like a lot bearing material.